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Schedule : 2nd to 19th April 2021

Mt. Island Expedition is a technical mountaineering endeavor in Nepal Himalaya. Mt. Island is a peak located in Sagarmatha National park of Nepal near the village Dingboche. This expedition will be a stepping stone for Extreme high altitude challenges.

Since it is a semi technical peak yet offers exposure to 6000+ m altitude with snow, glacier and ice scrambling, every avid mountaineer should attempt this peak to evaluate his/her personal mountaineering endurance before going for difficult extreme altitude mountains. Eric Shipton & his party named it so in 1951, since it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. Also known as Imja Tse summit, was first climbed in 1956 by a Swiss team as a training exercise in preparation for Mount Everest and Lhotse expeditions. Since then this expedition is considered to be Pre Everest expedition as a part of preparation.

Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be set up for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. From the Top, one can see gigantic wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft).


Day 1

Arrival at Kathmandu

You will be welcomed and greeted by garland on the Kathmandu airport by the agency. Travel arrangements from airport to Hotel in private AC Van. After hotel check in procedure, you can explore the nearby Thamel Market and last minute shopping of any equipment or climbing gears needed.

Day 2

Preparation Day at Kathmandu

On this day, after breakfast, a briefing meeting will be planned where in you will be introduced to the Sherpa and guide and also a brief information about your expedition will be shared along with the Duffle bag, sleeping bag and trekking map. You can pack your bags according to the checklist provided. ** You are requested to have dinner and sleep as early as possible.

Day 3

Drive- Kathmandu to Ramechhap and Fly to Lukla (2840 m) & Trek to Phakding (2600 m)

There will be a wake-up call at 2 AM. Gather at hotel lobby at 2.45 AM. You will be handed over breakfast packets. Travel from Kathmandu to Ramechhap takes about 5 hours. Travel arrangement in similar AC Vans will be made. Once you reach Ramechhap, wait for your turn to board the flight to Lukla. The journey is about 25 mins. Once you reach Lukla (2840 m), have quick snacks and start the trek to Phakding (2600 m). It takes about 3 to 4 hrs to reach Phakding.

Day 4

Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazar (3440 m)

The initial part of the trek includes walk through the nearby villages. A lunch halt at Jorsalle Village. The next part of the trek includes crossing high suspension bridges and finally a steep climb till Namche Bazar. After reaching, take rest and explore the market nearby. Time taken – 4-5 hours

Day 5

Acclimatization Trek Day to Everest View Hotel (3880 m)

You will be going for a hike from Namche Bazar to Everest View hotel. This marks the first glimpse of Mt Everest. You can rest for a while and start you trek back to Namche Bazar. You can spend the remaining day exploring the various shops and cafes in Namche Bazar.

Day 6

Trek from Namche Bazar to Tengboche (3900 m)

Tengboche is a beautiful village situated at an altitude of 3900 m. The trek to this village comprises of flat walking, descending and final ascent after the lunch halt at Phunkithanga. The Tengboche monastery is worth a visit. Time taken is about 6 hours.

Day 7

Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche (4440 M)

You will be crossing through some of the beautiful villages. You will see a scenic view of Mt. Ama Dablam from Pangboche village. You will have lunch in the next village, Somori. Average trekking hour 5 to 6.

Day 8

Acclimatization Hike to Nagarjuna Hill 5000 m and rest at Dingboche.

A steep hike to Nagarjuna Hill. You are expected to go up to 5000 m as it will help you to acclimatize for upcoming expedition days.

Day 9

Trek from Dingboche to Chukung (4700 m)

A gradual hike to the last village before Island Peak. You gain around 1110 m today. We trek to Chukung valley passing through the glacier rocks having the amazing views of Mt. Ama Dablam, Mt. Lhotse, etc. Before reaching the Bibre village, we can have a glimpse of Island Peak. Then after walking for some time from Bibre village, we finally arrive at Chukung and spend overnight here.

Day 10

Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5240m)

We head to Island Peak base camp, towards east of the valley. Trail following a stream, crossing Imja glacier takes you to the base camp. You can see view of Mt. Amphu Lapsa.

Day 11

Climb up to High Camp (5500 m)

Today you will start early morning climb from the Island Peak base camp and slowly climb up the hill. The rocky terrain leads you to High Camp where you will spend the rest of the day.

Day 12

Summit Island Peak and back to Chukung (6189 m)

Summit attempt. You will start at night at around 1-2 AM. You will climb on the rock terrain up to crampon point. From here, after climbing in snow and ice, crossing the crevasses, the summit commences. After reaching the summit, the magnificent view of the surrounding mountains blows away all the fatigue. The descend after climb is a crux up to some extent, stay alert ! After you reach the base camp, start you return trek back to Chukung.

Day 13

Trek from Chukung to Tengboche

You will follow the same trail back to Tengboche passing through Pangboche, and Dingboche the Shomori Villages.

Day 14

Trek from Tengboche to Monjo

You will trek down to Monjo crossing Namche Bazaar. The same route will be taken. You can take a halt at Namche Bazar have lunch and proceed to Monjo.

Day 15

Trek from Monjo to Lukla

Trek back to the starting point and spend the rest of the day. As you approach nearer, the sight of flights taking off and landing can be seen but hang on, Lukla is still far away. The last 2-3 kms of trek will literally sweat you down but as you reach Lukla, the sigh of relief which you feel will be incomparable.

Day 16

Fly to Ramechhap and Drive to Kathmandu

Board a flight to Ramechhap and a van will be ready to escort you to Kathmandu. After reaching, enjoy your leisure time with your climbing mates.

Day 17

Rest day in Kathmandu and Farewell dinner

This day, you can opt for a city tour or you can take rest. Also, a farewell dinner will be planned to celebrate the success of Island Peak Climb.

Day 18

Departure from Kathmandu

Travel arrangements to the International Airport as per your scheduled flight. Have a safe journey !! Take back memories to be cherished forever.

1. All Airport/Hotel transfers
2. 4 nights in Normal Nice Hotel in Kathmandu on Twin Sharing basis with Breakfast
3. Kathmandu – Lukla –Kathmandu flight and departure taxes
4. Food and Accommodation during trekking/ climbing session (full board service – breakfast, lunch and dinner + hot drinking water)
5. An experienced English speaking Trekking and Climbing guide and Sherpa porters to carry luggage including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food and lodging
6. All necessary paper works (national park permit and Island Peak climbing fees)
7. Trekking Duffel bag and Trekking / Climbing map
8. Equipment allowance for climbing guide
9. Travel and rescue arrangements
10. Insurance for Nepali staff
11. Special farewell dinner
12. Cost Inclusive of GST (Current rate 5%)

1. Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival / late departure, early return from mountains (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
2. Personal Climbing gear
3. Meals in Kathmandu
4. Alcohol and Beverages during the trek.
5. Personal expenses
6. Emergency Medical evacuation
7. Tips for guides and porters
8. Any other requirement which is not mentioned in the above list of included services

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